Friday, 7 August 2015

Humans are evolving, this is also true to jewellery: questions appeared after Schmuck 2015




人類史一直在進化,珠寶也是。

The boundaries of jewellery have being constantly pushing since the 1960s. In every aspect, the question: ‘What is jewellery?’ has been changing. The materials, techniques, functional, ornamental uses, and the relationship between the wearer and the object have all been developing. The "New Jewellery Movement" began in the 1950s, has spawned many debates between art historians, scholars, artists, designers, business organizers, museum curators and the like. These arguments centre upon the questions of whether a piece of jewellery is art or design, or can be both. Jewellery is categorised in decorative art but how we choose to categorise it is less important than whether or not it gives pleasure to the wearer and viewer.

“Those who use jewellery as a medium for artistic expression have to fight many prejudices.” Liesbeth den Besten stated in her book ‘On Jewellery: A compendium of international contemporary art jewellery’

This is one of the reasons that I visited Schmuck again, the famous jewellery week for people who speak jewellery. The interesting nickname “Bubble” that professionals gave it in 2013 which contains lots stories behind.   

There is a group of artists who have dedicated themselves to this movement and fought for their beliefs for over 50 years.

After a six-day visiting in Munich Jewellery Week, the question: ‘what is jewellery art’ became clearer to me. 

“What is art?” Of course,  definitions are vary.  

“Who has that authority to give the definition of what is art jewellery?” 



珠寶的界線,從西元六零年代開始,被藝術家,歷史學家探討並且推進一直到現代。
“什麼是珠寶?”這樣的概念一直在進化當中。
從材質,技術,功能性,裝飾,還有一個重點,跟人體之間的關係。
珠寶(在歐洲)被歸類在裝飾藝術這個學科裡,然而不管它被分到哪一個類別,對佩戴者及觀賞者而言,都是一種樂趣。

“拿珠寶當藝術品的作家們必須要跟很多先入為主的偏見奮鬥。” 莉絲白 丹 貝斯頓,荷蘭藝術史學家,在她發表的著作裡寫了這麼一句話。


這其實是我再次造訪2015年德國當代首飾展的原因。一些“圈內”的專家給了這個領域一個有趣的外號“泡泡”其實包含了很多故事在裡面。

有這麼一群人,已經為他們的信念奮鬥了五十年了,我的觀察,珠寶不是只是一件藝術品。

六天下來“什麼是藝術珠寶“我有了一點點答案。
“什麼是藝術?” 定義有很多,“又是誰有權力來決定什麼樣的珠寶是藝術?”







Wednesday, 15 April 2015

倫敦城裡遇見林士強










The images of our young energy emerged in my mind when I put the gramophone needle on the 7" vinyl featuring the Born Slippy by Underworld. I was looking at a sleeve that created by a Taiwanese artist Lin Shih Chiang in Somerset House London.



Secret 7" is a annual event combines art and music since 2012. This year they support Nordoff Robbins which is a charity dedicated to transforming lives of vulnerable children and adults through music therapy.


This event takes 7 tracks from 7 of the best-known musicians and press each one 100 times to 7" vinyl. Then invitees creatives artists around the world to illustrate for every 7". 700 sleeves are exhibiting now in Terrace Rooms at Somerset House till 3rd May 2015.

當我把唱針放在唱片上,耳朵裡傳來born slippy的鼓聲,熱血的回憶就蹦蹦蹦的出現在我的腦裡,而我當下正站在倫敦薩默賽特府的展廳裡與台灣藝術家林士強的入選作品相望。

Secret 7" 是一年一次的展覽,結合了藝術音樂與公益募款活動。今年選出7首經典單曲,各單曲壓製成100張7寸黑膠唱片,並邀請世界各地的藝術家以個人風格創作出單曲封面。這700張單曲會在5月4號以一張50英鎊售出。每張單曲只有一張,而且收藏的人不曉得會收到哪一首音樂,因為’秘密七寸‘是這個活動的精神。


今年的七首單曲分別為:
The Chemical Brothers - Let forever Be
Diana Ross and The Supremes - Reflections
The Maccabees - Go
Peter Gabriel - Sledgehammer
The Rolling Stones - Dead Flowers
St. Vincent - Digital Witness
Underworld - Born Slippy
你聽過那幾首呢?

策展人運用當代影像設計師與音樂結合,替公益團體募款,非常聰明且獨特的方法,也讓世界各地藝術家有不同的展出機會。走進展場,左右兩面牆各別展出700張不同的封面。第一跟第二個展示空間裡各有一個中島,放置了7台唱盤,每個唱盤有4對耳機給觀眾聽覺上的享受。第三個空間裡的裝置是一個巨大木箱,往木箱裡望去,發現一個銅拔吊在中央,銅拔的前方有一個軌道,頓時明白了剛剛走近展場時聽到的銅拔聲就是從這裡傳出來的。
它的目的是讓來參觀的民眾經由銅板敲響銅拔一起贊助這個公益活動,以下是我嘗試了一下‘為善欲為人知’的影片。





Friday, 3 April 2015

Bubble Land in Schmuck 2015

 



“Capturing and reconstructing impressions on the land of our time”
They changed ‘constructing’ to ‘reconstructing’ on the wall in the gallery. This is an interesting point for a group of artists who work together. After all passion, thinking, and collective hit together, the word ‘reconstructing’ has a better transmission for this exhibition.

Gallery Kobeia featured10 artists from Taiwan who communicated to the audiences with their observations of the land they live in. When I walked into the gallery, there was a pile of ziplock bags which appeared in the form of a bubble, both individually and collectively. Jewellery pieces were hung on the wall and the video player was playing music that attracted my ears immediately. It was a Taiwanese traditional instrument to be heard playing when religious parades are shuttling through villages or cities.
I was pleased to have a short talk with one of the artists, Yung-Huei Chao.

Moski (M): This is the second exhibition you host in Schmuck. Could you tell me why chose Bubble Land as a theme this year?

Yung-Huei (Y): We chose “Ni Hao” last year, because it’s like saying hello in the UK or kissing cheeks in France. It was the first time for us to exhibit in Munich. We would like to “say hello” to this contemporary jewellery carnival. This year we chose “Bubble” because it has multiple-faces. When heard this word, most people may consider it as a cute expression, and somehow, actually it contains sorrow facts in it. For example, it could brake easily, fragile, and response to one of the popular topics from last year, which was Schmuck exhibition, is a bubble only insiders talk about it. However, there is an interesting viewpoint, when many bubbles are gathering together, it takes shape into a configuration of this culture. It contains many status and countless possibilities. It also represents 10 thoughts linking together from artists who are islanders. Each artist is a single bubble when we dedicate ourselves in creation world, however we also have the needs to interactive with more bubbles. When many small bubbles link together it could be a huge bubble.
It is a connotation of how human beings live together but still independent just like the number of contemporary jewellery artist is growing.

M: Why chose ziplock bag as a material to form your installation?

Y: These bags are similar to the bubble. Not only in the shape but also in the characteristic. When they are stack, they interactive to each other. This material is easily accessed in Taiwan, so we take this advantage to make this installation.

M: Do you design the lay out in a specifically reason?

Y: Because 10 artists have very different and specific style, so we have designed independent areas for each artist, and hopefully the audiences could connect to every artist’s bubble world. After these days, we have some interesting responses from the visitors as well, and that is also stimulation for artists.

Next are glimpses of current collections from 10 artists for Munich Jewellery Week 2015.


Mei-FangChiang – Picking Leaves Series interprets the relationship between plants and environment as well as the mutual dependence of jewellery and wearer.



Yu-PingLin – The Journey of Kaleidos
This is an interactive work by the artist; by flipping over the flower, audiences could experience the changing pattern and kaleido-like visual effect.


Ying-Hsiu Chen – Scenery in My Mind is the new creation of the Sketch Series collection. The golden particles are mimicking various kinds of creatures under the sea. Ying-Hsiu uses this creation recording her life of living at the seaside. Some visitors believe the colourful childhood nurtures her work.


Heng Lee – Floral Print of Formosa
This series explain the conflict between technology and natural nowadays. Although we could search most of the plants on the Internet, however we cannot touch or feel them. We all live in the impact of new technology and it is like a magnificent weave came into our life before our notices.



Han-ChiehChuang – Brick Series
Red is Chuang’s representative colour, her experiments playing with red in different mediums, brick, enamel, paper… etc., which builds up the pieces of the memories relating to her homeland.


Artist was made aware the value of traditional culture is rare and precious. Therefore she deforms traditional Chinese calligraphy and porcelain for the sake of cognition.


Yung-Huei Chao – transient Space
Artist’s work is a reflection of an existence that supposed to be invisible. The illegal structure is one of Taiwanese memories (such as me), also a silent toleration. The new work could expand and contract featuring the ambiguous of this silent toleration.  


Wen-MiaoYeh – Buzz Buzz
New creation is derived from the memories of artist’s childhood. She continues the concept ‘space as a memory’ to create these repetitive bicycle images. To Miao, space is not just for living, but a standpoint of life accession.

The new collection is a conversation with artist herself. The talk is about internal, external, conflict, and self-discovery. The pure joyfulness of creating is a balance between pragmatism and idealization, moreover, it is a recording of artistic life in present days.

In relation to urban life, her work responses to human beings live together yet independently as well as ‘Two Make One Heart 1’ is cohered by several pieces of knitting acrylic. Artistic creating is an isolated status for Cai-Xuan. However the support from families and friends just like the connection of the bubbles weaving up the net of ‘group’.    


After Yung-Huei’s guidance, I had a peek at their catalogue. They printed it in two directions. These images were taken at different times in various locations. The purpose of this lay out is to encourage visitors linking the jewellery pieces with the images of their homeland. While I flipping back and forward this catalogue, the memory of home that lied hidden deeply in my heart was triggered by these art pieces and the photos.

Jewellery is one of the oldest archaeological artefacts. It is a unique language that we use in many occasions in our lifetime. It is not only a body adornment but also a way of learning about human cultures. The Oxford English Dictionary defines ‘contemporary’ as relating to now, and also as living, existing, or occurring together in time. Contemporary jewellery is the new jewellery of the time, it is what jewellery artists are making in the present day; it is what is happening now. 


In Munich every March, Schmuck attracts a group of people who devote themselves to the contemporary jewellery movement. This does not overturn the traditional value of the object itself, but expands the meaning of jewellery beyond body adornment. These new meanings not only focus on concepts deriving from the object and the wearer relationship; but also a reflection of new artist working in the present generation. These artists present what they do and how they live now, as another page in jewellery history. For me, as an international student and possible future curator, Schmuck illustrates a positive direction and the message that jewellery can be more than a status symbol. (To be continued...)

Courtesy of Bench 886 & Miss Moski


Friday, 24 October 2014

the very first step of curating




MA Curating Contemporary Design - The course I am doing at the moment at Kingston University, run jointly with the Design Museum London.

I am absorbing the mass information form this city, London, that I dreamed of living in two years ago, not anymore, bizarre.

Enjoying the stimulation of urbane education and the lively rhythm of metropolitan.


That doubt "traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design are conflict or complement each other" still in my mind, however, it seems like I found a direction.


The seeds of curator have been planted into the soil.




策展:當代設計,目前正在念的研究所,倫敦金斯頓大學與設計博物館共同成立的科目。
開學的這幾周,我吸收了倫敦城裡大大小小的展訊。
倫敦,一個我兩年前想要居住的城市,現在不想了,怪哉。
教授高雅的身段,倫敦城特殊的活力,我沈浸在其中,有點拔不出來。
開學前的疑惑 ”傳統工藝與當代設計,是衝突還是相輔相成“ 我好像找到了一個方向。

策展人的種子,已經埋進土裡了,我現在澆水灌溉當中,期待它發芽!

Tuesday, 26 August 2014

Life is changing every second

i remember that an old friend told me: 
the environment is changing every second 
that's why our hearts have to be stable or consistence. 

this course is almost going to the end
the primitive memories in the beginning of Kingston
we feel the confusing, struggling, unfamiliar in the same circle
but we also experience the gathering, growing and sharing happiness together
exotic classroom
tune up the frequencies from various cultures 

the way I sense this world is keeping smile
and pick up every tiny images around me 
(yes, I am talking about your foot and broccoli, Mike)

the unstable weather here in England provokes my sensations as always

Phoenix is here with me
let's move on to next destination, shall we?














記得有個老朋友曾告訴我,
環境是不斷的在變動的,
所以,我們的心必須要更加堅定。

我們擁有最原始的,對這個城鎮的記憶,
在同樣的一間異國的教室裡,
大家來自四面八方,
我們試著把氛圍調整成同一個頻率。

繼續用微笑學習這個世界,
這些小小的片段,
都是組成我生活的一部份,
(沒錯,邁可我在說你的腳跟那個花椰菜)

英格蘭好不穩定的天氣總是在誘導我的感官

Phoenix, 我們往下個地方繼續走下去吧!

Friday, 4 July 2014

Sky at night (in Brighton this spring)




The sky is velvet blue mixed charcoal black

The Orion's Belt pointed the Sirius just above the sea level

The night is gentle

And the outline of seagulls in the distance, a thousand of stars


(Moon Stone. Diamond. 925 silver)


布萊頓.  春天的夜空


深藍和著碳黑的天空

海平面的上方

射手座的腰帶

指出天狼星

今晚的空氣很溫暖

千萬顆星星 

是黑夜裡海鷗的輪廓


(月光石 。鑽石。925銀)

Wednesday, 14 May 2014

Chasing and repousse into metal and life


What did I learn from the making process of metal?
"Just make it!" And I learnt from the making even it is a mistake sometimes.

when I punched on those lovely clouds,
I felt the metal was moving gradually into the shape I designed but a bit different
a bit like life..... I tried to make plans and it just happened everyday and a bit different as I planed
pitch, silver, punch, hammer, my hands and my eyes
music, food and friends
they are making parties in my life

metal is a firm and solid substance...... similar with part of my persona, the stubborn part.... 
somehow it is transforming gradually into the shape which I never expected and big difference, I meant life part....

Jon : It's not about what I like, it's about what it needs. (He meant making jewellery I guess)
Moski (interior monologue) : "it's not about what I like, it's about what life needs." Applied this in to my life philosophy, shall I?

Be happy where I am and comfortable what I do.





問我從學習金工到現在,學到了什麼?
“動手做” 就會學到東西,雖然有時會用錯方法

當我揮動敲花鎚在這些雲朵上的時候
我可以感覺到金屬慢慢的在移動,變成我想要的形狀但有些不同
有一點像我的生活,有一些計劃,但總是趕不上變化
松膠,銀,敲花鑿,敲花鎚,我的手跟我的眼睛
音樂,美食跟朋友
這是我的生活派對

金屬是一種堅固且實際的物質,有點類似我部分的人格,固執的部分
以某種方式,漸漸地轉化成我從來沒想過的樣子並且非常不同于我的想像

Jon: 這跟我喜歡不喜歡沒有關係,跟作品需要怎麼完成有關係.(我想,他指金工創作過程,他是我金工的良師益友)
Moski (內心獨白): 這跟我喜歡不喜歡沒有關係,而是要怎麼讓生活繼續.(我在想是不是把這個想法放到我的生活裡)

可能是在鄉下長大的關係,我敬佩那種日出而作,日落而息的規律生活.
對很多人來說或許無趣,對我來說,踏實

好多英國朋友說我的微笑可以治病,我很開心我的笑容有這樣的功能,謝謝老爸老媽給我這個天賦.