Humans are evolving, this is also true to jewellery: questions appeared after Schmuck 2015

人類史一直在進化，珠寶也是。

The boundaries of jewellery have being constantly pushing since the 1960s. In every aspect, the question: ‘What is jewellery?’ has been changing. The materials, techniques, functional, ornamental uses, and the relationship between the wearer and the object have all been developing. The "New Jewellery Movement" began in the 1950s, has spawned many debates between art historians, scholars, artists, designers, business organizers, museum curators and the like. These arguments centre upon the questions of whether a piece of jewellery is art or design, or can be both. Jewellery is categorised in decorative art but how we choose to categorise it is less important than whether or not it gives pleasure to the wearer and viewer.

“Those who use jewellery as a medium for artistic expression have to fight many prejudices.” Liesbeth den Besten stated in her book ‘On Jewellery: A compendium of international contemporary art jewellery’

This is one of the reasons that I visited Schmuck again, the famous jewellery week for people who speak jewellery. The interesting nickname “Bubble” that professionals gave it in 2013 which contains lots stories behind.   

There is a group of artists who have dedicated themselves to this movement and fought for their beliefs for over 50 years.

After a six-day visiting in Munich Jewellery Week, the question: ‘what is jewellery art’ became clearer to me. 

“What is art?” Of course,  definitions are vary.  

“Who has that authority to give the definition of what is art jewellery?” 

珠寶的界線，從西元六零年代開始，被藝術家，歷史學家探討並且推進一直到現代。
“什麼是珠寶？”這樣的概念一直在進化當中。
從材質，技術，功能性，裝飾，還有一個重點，跟人體之間的關係。
珠寶（在歐洲）被歸類在裝飾藝術這個學科裡，然而不管它被分到哪一個類別，對佩戴者及觀賞者而言，都是一種樂趣。

“拿珠寶當藝術品的作家們必須要跟很多先入為主的偏見奮鬥。” 莉絲白 丹 貝斯頓，荷蘭藝術史學家，在她發表的著作裡寫了這麼一句話。

這其實是我再次造訪2015年德國當代首飾展的原因。一些“圈內”的專家給了這個領域一個有趣的外號“泡泡”其實包含了很多故事在裡面。

有這麼一群人，已經為他們的信念奮鬥了五十年了，我的觀察，珠寶不是只是一件藝術品。

六天下來“什麼是藝術珠寶“我有了一點點答案。

“什麼是藝術？” 定義有很多，“又是誰有權力來決定什麼樣的珠寶是藝術？”